How To Make Windows And Corners, Chinking Cabin Walls

Log-cabin walls rest on sills and are topped by plates. In some forms of construction there are true sills and plates along only two opposite walls, nearly always the longer ones. The bottom logs across the ends may be somewhat above the level of the sill logs along the sides, and therefore elevated a few inches above the foundation. This is determined by the type of joint employed. It is, however, a good idea to halve the ends of the bottom logs and make lap joints at corners, to produce a sill all around. When a hip roof

How to cut in a casement window that will swing out is shown in this illustration

is used, it rests on plates extending along all four sides; when a simple gable roof is used, it rests mainly on plates running along the two longer sides. Hew the top of each sill flat and level. Set the sill logs carefully on the piers or foundation walls, and make sure that they do not rock. This is accomplished by proper hewing of the under side of the log at the points of contact with the foundations.

The ways in which logs may be locked together at the corners are numerous, as indicated by the drawings. Of all the designs shown, No. 6 is probably the best because it is simple in design and therefore can be cut easily with an ax, and because it does not catch and hold water. This matter of retaining water is impor­tant, for it may mean the difference between long and short cabin life. The No. 6 joint was a favorite with old-time cabin builders. It can be cut with the aid of a saw by the modern builder who is not particularly skilful with an ax.

The joint shown in No. 4 is not completely inter­locking, but has the advantage of not retaining water. Spikes have to be driven into the joints, to make them absolutely rigid. In No. 7 is shown a method of using logs so that end and side courses are even, and not staggered as with most other types. No. 1 is a simple corner construction in which the logs are cut square and held together by vertical timbers spiked to their ends. A small log or quarter section of a larger one is used to fill the angle and produce a finished appear­ance. This joint, as well as that in No. 7, lacks strength because it is difficult if not impossible to lock it securely with spikes. Therefore, it is necessary to fasten the logs together by driving spikes at intervals along their lengths. First a ¾ -in. hole is bored half­way through the top log, and a large spike inserted into it and driven through the remainder of the bored log and into the next one, with the aid of a 5/8  -in. steel bar and heavy hammer. Joint No. 8 is a simple one and reasonably strong if care is taken in spiking. In ap­pearance it is not quite comparable with some of the other joints that permit the full end of each log to show.

Various methods of chinking and calking the lop in the cabin are shown. Any method will serve if it is carefully done

connecting the ends, an unusual effect is obtained, and an impression of great solidity is produced.

When plenty of logs are available, it is customary to cut window and door openings after the walls are laid. Logs are placed so that bad spots will be cut out, when possible. The top log of the opening is either cut away for the full width of the opening, or deeply notched at each extremity of the opening, so that a saw blade can be passed through. A 2- by 6-in. plank is nailed temporarily to the logs in such manner that the edge next to the proposed opening will act as a guide for the saw blade. Of course, this edge is made plumb, with level or plumb bob and line. A two-man crosscut saw is used, one man working on the inside and the other outside. The logs are sawed out and the resulting short pieces set aside for later use in blocking up cracks or for other purposes.

Sawed ends of the logs are held by false jambs, which are 2-in. planks somewhat less in width than the average diameter of the logs. The jambs are placed against the log ends, and securely spiked to each log. It is not a bad idea to apply a preservative to the log ends, to counteract decay. Projecting sides of the logs are chopped off at an angle, as shown. Before cutting the opening, measure the width of the window sash or frame, or the door, or door frame, depending on whether a frame is used in addition to that formed by the false jambs, and then add to it the combined thickness of the jambs.

Perhaps you are asking why short logs are not used in the first place, and fitted against the window and door jambs. The answer is that this sometimes is done, but that it is difficult and more laborious. The logs of a given panel must be cut to exactly uniform lengths, and must be placed so that their combined height is the same all the way around, or the wall will have an objectionable appearance. Whole logs must be used above and below the openings, for stability. When short sections are used for paneling between openings, it sometimes is desirable to nail them together at inter­vals, in addition to the end-nailing to false jambs.

The simplest types of doors and windows are satisfactory for log cabins. Casement windows that swing inward or outward are considered best. It is not difficult to fit these. The sashes are hung from the frames with butt hinges, and are provided with a sliding bar that can be locked to hold them in any position when open. An ordinary desk-lid slide, with a wing nut work­ing on a bolt running upward through the sill, can be used, or a regular window fitting obtained. The sash swings shut against stops that are strips of wood nailed to the frame, and is locked by a suitable catch. Doors are hung almost exactly like casement windows, except that they have no sliding arrangement to lock them in an open position. Screens should be provided over windows and doors to keep out insects. Door and win-down design and construction are discussed at length in a later chapter.

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How To Build A Log Cabin