Where To Build A Log Cabin

UNFAVORABLY located, the finest cabin in the world will be a disappointment. Selecting a site is a matter of great importance. For summer-home use, some of the factors affecting the location include acces­sibility, drainage, water supply, cooling breezes, wooded areas, lakes, streams, and vistas or scenery. Some thought may be given also to the safety factor: the nearness of dangerous cliffs, avenues of escape in event of a forest fire, flood menace, and protection from storms.

Although it is desirable to have a vacation retreat far from any road, you must consider the matter of accessibility. In the first place, materials used in con­struction must be hauled to the site. Later, guests and supplies must be transported to the cabin, usually in automobiles. Keep in mind the fact that roads and trails that are excellent in dry weather may become impassable when it rains, or during winter months when the ground is not frozen.

Substantial cottage, showing the best manner of making corner joints. Casement window opens out flat against the wall.

To assure health protection, make certain that the water supply is adequate and safe. It seldom is safe to use water from streams. Springs are satisfactory if there is no seepage of waste matter into them from above. A dug or drilled well is perhaps the best form of water supply. But whatever the source, it will pay you to have the water tested once or twice a year. In most states, this will be done by the county or state health department without charge. You simply procure a sterilized bottle from the local health officer, fill it with the water, and mail it to the place designated.

The location of porches and other matters of orien­tation will be determined largely by the direction from which cooling breezes blow, points from which the most

Logs can be dressed to any shape desired by using a sharp ax as indicated in the illustration.

beautiful scenery can be enjoyed, position of shore of lakes and streams, and the presence of large trees or other natural formations.

From the standpoint of safety, it would be unwise to build a cabin on the brink of a cliff, or at a point where a dangerous rock formation or steep slope must be negotiated to reach the site. Do not place the build­ing under a leaning tree that might fall, unless the tree can be removed. Avoid, likewise, overhanging, rocks and earthen banks. Make inquiry about the height of flood waters from near-by streams and note whether the site is in a pocket that might become a lake if the rainfall is heavy. In mountainous country, the danger of snow slides and landslides must be taken into consideration.

Another important factor is sanitation, Outside toilets should be placed in a secluded spot not too close to the cabin, and should be below the level of springs, and at least too feet away from all sources of drinking water. Do not place the toilet near the main roadway or approach to the cabin. These suggestions apply to chemical toilets, pit toilets, septic tanks, and garbage pits.

When erecting a cabin, keep in mind the fact that you may want to enlarge it later. Because of its in­formal and rustic nature, the average cabin can ramble all over the place and still look attractive. It is better, however, to follow some definite plan, and to leave space for possible later additions.

Preserve, as far as possible, the natural appearance of surroundings. Let all trees stand, except the dead ones, and refrain from trimming off limbs that are close to the ground. Clear away only the underbrush and shrubbery where absolutely necessary. Usually the landscaping can be improved by transplanting shrub­bery, so as to create natural screens separating the cabin from the roadway or from other cabins, to conceal outbuildings, and effect other improvements. When fences are built, they should be of rough poles, to preserve the rustic appearance of the surroundings. The same applies to outdoor furniture, boat docks, etc.

The matter of tools is not a difficult one to solve, when it comes to the actual erection of a cabin. A tog house, being primitive in nature, can be built with the aid of only an ax and a crosscut saw. However, some elaboration on these fundamental tools is desirable. An adz may be helpful. Old-time cabin builders used

This is a bad location for a cabin as the hillside drains water into the site. Also, the bottom logs are in contact with the ground.

a broad-ax for hewing logs flat. This consisted of a wide-bladed ax head fitted with a hickory handle steamed and bent slightly outward, so that it would not be struck against the log and be broken, When these handles got wet, they often straightened out again. If you cannot procure a broad-ax, either a broad hatchet with 5- or 6-in, blade, or an ordinary ax can be used for hewing. A wide blade is necessary in order to produce a smooth surface.

A shingle-splitting tool was employed a great deal in earlier times, but you probably will buy your shingles or other roofing material. For cutting logs, a two-man crosscut saw is desirable. You will find it wearisome to work logs with a hand-saw although such a tool is useful when handling small poles, framing

Here is a better site as the drainage is away from the cabin. Note the building is set on concrete supports and a restraining wall diverts the water from the hill

windows and doors, etc. A heavy hammer, for driving spikes, is necessary. Some forms of construction re­quire that the logs be nailed together at intervals, the spikes being driven through holes bored part way through them. For this purpose an auger and a bar or rod of iron a foot long and about 5/8 in. in greatest diameter are used. A sufficiently strong block and tackle can be used to raise logs into place on the wall.

The upper pulley can be mounted on a tripod made of poles, or attached to the part of the wall already in place. With this useful device, two men can put up a cabin that, without it, would require a half-dozen or more men, working with forked or pointed poles. A small trowel for chinking cracks between logs is desirable.

For building other types of cabins from mill sawed lumber, the usual assortment of carpenters' tools is required. These include hammer, rip and crosscut hand saw, hatchet, steel tape, steel square, plumb line and bob, level, chisels, plane, and so on. Sectional or ready-cut cabins, which can be purchased from some dealers, require to erect them little more than a hammer, and perhaps a wrench for tightening nuts on bolts.

If you go into the business of building vacation cabins and lodges, you will find a power saw, with perhaps a jointer unit attached, a great convenience, and at least as serviceable as an extra helper. An 8-in. circular saw on a suitable stand does not cost a great deal. With it you can rip, crosscut, dada and otherwise process stock in excess of 2 in. thick. A saw of this type together with a 4-in. jointer, mounted on a rugged steel stand, can be purchased for less than $70. For about $40, you can get a 7/10 - horsepower, four-cycle gasoline engine that will operate the saw, and any other power machinery you may want to use. The saw-jointer unit and engine can be hauled to the job in a small truck.

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How To Build A Log Cabin