Example Of Cabin Specifications

Then work out the specifications. The following example is necessarily not exhaustive in nature.

Specifications for Colonial type tourist cabin:

General: Dimensions shown by plans and figures are to be followed. If there is a disagreement, the plans will be accepted as accurate.

All workmanship is to be of highest quality, and materials are to be the best available.

The owner may make alterations or changes during the progress of the work, the cost of such to be added to or subtracted from the price as required.

Foundation: The cabin will rest on concrete piers set into the ground and provided with footings ex­tending below the frost line. Footings not less than 18 in. square, extending within 6 in. of the ground sur­face, and made of concrete composed of 1 part (by volume) Portland cement, 2 parts clean, sharp sand and 4 parts washed gravel. Piers not less than 1 ft. square and extending to height designated by owner. Pier concrete of same composition as footing, and rein­forced with 4 vertical steel rods ½ in. in diameter, placed 2 in. from respective corners and tied together with heavy wire at 12-in. intervals.

Excavation: In addition to holes for piers, soil will be removed when necessary so that there is a clearance of at least 6 in. beneath all parts of building.

Fireplace Foundation: The fireplace will be sup­ported on a footing of concrete 6 in. thick and 1 ft. larger each way than the hearth. Place footing below frost line. Concrete composition same as for piers.

Fireplace and Chimney: Use good quality common brick set in cement mortar composed in proportion of one 94-lb, bag Portland cement, 9 lbs. dry hydrated lime, and 3 times their combined volume of clean, sharp sand. Flue to be lined with cylindrical fireclay lining having a cross-sectional area equal to 1/10 area of fire­place opening. Chimney capped by brick set on edge in mortar. Fireplace lined on sides and back with fire­brick. Hearth covered with cement mortar.

Lumber: All lumber, except where noted, is Cali­fornia redwood, well-seasoned. Sizes include:
Sills, 3 by 6, heart common.

Tops of sills, 2 by 4, heart common.
Floor joists, 2 by 6, heart common.

Plates and bridging, house and garage, 2 by 4, heart common.

Studs, 2 by 4, heart common. 18" centers in house, 2’0” centers in garage.

Rafters, 2 by 4, heart common, 2’0” centers.

All other timbers not mentioned, to be furnished in standard size and good grade.

Outside walls: The walls are of board-and-batten construction. The boards, set vertically, are 1 by 12 select or clear redwood, set with rough side out. Bat­tens are ½ by 2 ½ redwood, select or clear, nailed over joints in such a manner that weather cannot enter.

Roof: Roof is covered with 1 by 4 sheathing, heart common redwood, 8” on center. Redwood shingles, laid 4 ½” to weather, and nailed with copper or zinc-coated nails, 4 penny shingle-nail size. Valleys and chimney to be flashed with 16-oz. sheet copper, lapped and soldered, with rosin flux, at joints. 4 by 4 redwood gutter extends along eaves.

Windows: D. H. window frames, 3’6” by 5’1”, with 6-light sash, glazed, and with weights and cords. Frames shall be of standard design. Front window is to be equipped with 1 pair of stock shutters, 1’6” by 5’ 3/8”.

Doors: Door jambs to be 2'6" by 6'8" by 5 3/8”. Casings, both sides, to be 1" by 5". Entrance doorway hung with 6-panel stock door 1 ¾” thick, with leaded glass transom. Inside doors are 1-panel, 1 3/8” stock.

Entrance: In front of the main doorway is a landing of common brick, laid flat in cement mortar mixed as already specified. Flanking the entrance are two lattice frames made of 2 by 2 vertical members and 1 by 1 ½ cross members, select or clear redwood.

Flooring: The floor throughout will be of 1 by 4 or 1 by 6 tongue-and-groove redwood, securely nailed with one 6-penny flooring brad at each bearing point. Flooring ends to be butted tightly against sidewall boards, and joint at angle sealed with ½ -in. quarter-round moulding.

Inside Finishing and Fittings: Inside wall and ceiling surfaces to be covered with 1 by 12 redwood boards with moulded joints cut as shown in detail B. All door openings to be trimmed with plain 1 by 5 casings. Window casings to match door casings. Build medicine cabinet 1’2” by 1’'8”-6” deep, with mirror in door; spice cabinet 1’10” by 3’0”-4” deep, single panel door; two kitchen cabinets 2’0” by 3’6”—12” deep, single panel doors. Install stock drainboard 1’10” by 2’6” by 1 1/16”, sugar pine. Run 1 by 4 moulding cut to detail A, around room in angle between sidewalls and ceiling. All interior finish to be best grade clear redwood, kiln-dried and finished smooth. Leave living room walls and ceiling natural redwood finish. Apply two coats white paint to bath and kitchen walls. Finish all floors two coats floor paint, dark olive green. Nail holes in painted surfaces to be puttied after prime coat is applied.

Outside Finish: Apply 2 coats dark green stain to roof, lattice and shutters. Board and battens, door and sash, two coats white lead and oil.

The foregoing specifications could, of course, be ex­panded to include greater detail. Only some of the essential items have been listed, others being omitted because of space restrictions. Additional divisions that would enable everyone concerned to get a clearer pic­ture of the proposed building might include cellar excavation and floor construction (in buildings where a cellar is used); details of automobile shed corner posts and other parts; cornice construction; screens and blinds for windows; plumbing, including water supply and sewage disposal facilities; heating equip­ment, etc.

From the specifications, plans, materials list, local labor conditions, nature of the site, and other condi­tions influencing costs, the builder next prepares an estimate. This estimate is his personal calculation of the probable cost of the tourist home. He bases it upon all the data available, and does not begin its prepara­tion until all facts are at hand. To the computed cost he adds a percentage for profit and for unexpected ex­penses. The profit will vary, and can be anywhere from 10% to 20% or more of the actual cost of labor and materials. An estimate at best is only an approxi­mation.

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How To Build A Log Cabin