How To Build 20 Log Cabins > Six Shooter
The prototype shown, built in Gordonsville, Va., by Mr. and Mrs. George F. R. Pollard of Newark, N. J., is another Ward log-on-log constructed cabin (see The John Alden, The Rustic, and The Logger).
Measuring 32 ft., 4 in. wide, the kitchen wall side is a full 22 ft. in length. The longer right wall, due to the additional gabled bedroom, measures 26 ft.
The Six-Shooter boasts of a beautiful, cross-ventilated living room-with fireplace, access to all rooms, and a double or picture window in the front. Of particular interest is the unusual inner foyer leading to both bedrooms and bath. Here is "upstairs" privacy in a one-level structure.Plenty of closet space makes this a very livable vacation dwelling - or, for that matter, an all year round home.
The master bedroom measures 10x12 ft. The second bedroom, 8x12 ft. The roomy kitchen, with its own service entrance, measures 12 ft. 8 in. x 7 ft. 11 in. The cellar entrance is also off this room. While the Pollards decided upon a full basement, this feature is optional.
Exterior walls consist of specially milled white cedar logs. The logs have a natural, peeled finish on the outside and are dressed on the inside to provide a smooth interior wall. Each log is numbered to indicate its position in the wall and all logs have a uniform depth of 5 1/4 in. and a minimum thickness of 3 1/2 in. When you have walls that thick, it is easy to see why no other insulation is necessary.
In addition, each log is milled to provide a one-half inch tongue and groove, a recess for caulking compound and an outwardly sloping upper surface to prevent moisture from collecting in the horizontal joints. With this type of construction, you need only caulk once - as the building goes up. There is no need for chinking or patching every year.The logs vary in length up to eight feet and have a half inch half-lap at abutting ends. At external corners, a notch is provided in the vertical face of one log to receive a tongue on the end of the intersecting log.
Alternate logs project several inches beyond the corner. At re-entrant exterior corners, logs are notched on the exterior face to receive a 3x3-in. corner post.
Assembled jamb, lintel and mullion members are provided for doors and windows. Jamb and lintel units have a natural peeled surface on the exterior face and are rabbeted to receive wall logs and grooved or rabbeted for window stops. Lintels have a depth of 3 x 3 in. and a maximum thickness of three inches. Mullions have a minimum thickness of 2 1/2 in.
The sill is spruce or fir and is attached to the foundation with anchor bolts. The gable walls are fabricated in similar fashion, except that the ends of the logs are sloped to suit the slope of the roof.The interior partitions consist of two inch, tongue and groove, vertical pine planks. Frames for interior doors are milled from solid stock and are rabbeted to receive wall planks.
Roof framing consists of log purlins (roof bearing timbers) supported in notches cut into the gable end logs. In addition 3x5-in. pm'Un supports are framed into tie beams over bearing partitions. Purlin logs are spruce, smooth on one face to provide a uniform surface for the roof boards. Purlins may be either a single continuous log or may have a half-lap joint over a bearing point, depending upon their length.
The roof is somewhat unusual to say the least. Roof sheathing consists of two layers of one inch boards at right angles to the purlins, with 1 x 3 inch or thicker strapping between. The inner layer consists of tongue and groove matched pine. When a studioceiling is used, this inner roof provides a beautiful knotty pine paneling. The second roof is laid over the strapping, thereby providing a continuous vapor barrier. Shingling is conventional.
You can readily see from the foregoing, that what we have here is not only as sturdy and rugged as a house can get, but impressive and attractive as well.ASSEMBLY
This house can be erected on any standard foundation. Whether you wish a full cellar, or crawl space, the following instructions apply. The 4x8-in. sills are anchored to the foundation by anchor bolts put into the foundation before it sets. The plans (see list of Building Plans) will indicate how many sills there are. Anchor bolts should be set not more than eight feet apart, with at least two bolts available f or each sill section. (If you build on wood posts, simply spike the sills to the posts with 80d nails.)When the foundation is ready, notch pockets in appropriate places to receive the 6x8-in. girders (6x6-in. in the smaller units). Next set the sills in place, caulking at the ends which are half-lapped. Before the first row of logs is set in place, corrosion-resistant metal flashing is applied to the sill over caulking compound. It should be mentioned here that all exterior wall logs are given a shop-applied dip treatment, containing pentachlorophenol wood preservative and a surface sealer.
Next, snap a chalk line on the sill, four inches from the inside edge. Then place the first row of logs with their flat side along this line and spike the first row of logs to the sill with 80d nails. You will note that since this row of logs is narrower than the sill, the difference forms a ledge on which the floor joists rest. Joists are notched to fit this ledge and after they are in, tops are flush with the first row of wall logs. After the floor joists are in and bridged, lay the sub-floor diagonally across the floor joists.
The balance of the exterior wall logs are put in place much in the same manner as laying bricks. A full course of logs is applied around the entire perimeter of the house. Each wall log is toe-nailed at the end, to the course of logs below it, and at the top to the log just previously laid. Use 20d nails for all wall logs. A continuous bead of caulking compound is applied to the recess made to receive it, and at each lap joint. The caulking compound used is a non-hardening type and should be applied with care so that it does not show at any joint.
As already mentioned, doors are fully framed and assembled. The entire unit is put in place as called for on the plans and you simply build up the logs around it.
Each log that abuts against a door or window jamb, is toe-nailed in with one 20d nail per log. In any case where the span of logs between door or window jambs, corners, and other vertical supports, exceeds six feet, logs are spiked to each other with 80d nails (eight inch spikes) driven vertically and spaced 24 inches on centers. In all operations on doors, windows and walls, be certain that the entire assembly is plumb. A little time taken now to insure a proper fit will save you a lot of forcing later.
At this point, mention should be made of the plate row of logs. This is the top row of logs in the wall and the top surface of each of these logs is sloped to conform to the pitch of the roof. When you get to the top of the walls, before setting the plate row, the wall must be notched to receive the 6x6-inch tie beams which are just what the name implies - timbers to tie the building together. Where tie beams join each other or cross each other, they are crosslapped.
When the tie beams are set in place in the walls, they should be caulked and toe-nailed with two 20d spikes at each bearing. It is advisable to shore up the tie beams before going any further, since, when the roof is applied, considerable stress is placed on the tie beams. When interior partitions are installed, they will provide ample support for the beams.
After tie beams are in, install the ceiling joists. These joists are either 2x6-in. or 3x5-in., the latter being a beam, which protrudes into the rooms, with three sides smooth and the lower face peeled. They are supported on 2x2-inch ledgers securely spiked to the interior face of the exterior wall logs, and to the tie-beams, which occur over the bearing partitions.
Naturally, care should be taken to insure that the upper surface of the ledgers is at precisely the same level as the top of the tie beams. Now, add the plate row and continue building up the gable walls with the standard tongue and grove logs. When the gable is completed, the log purlins are set in place a maximum of four feet on centers, supported in notches in the gable end logs. The notches should be caulked and the purlins spiked in with 20d nails. In some models, these purlins run upwards of 30 feet in length. If they even approach this length, I suggest that you do not try to jockey them into position by hand, no matter how big a crew you have. If you cannot build a rig to lift them into place, rent a crane.
Well worth whatever you pay, it will save you considerable time and effort. Naturally, smaller purlins may be installed by the use of manpower alone. Additional bracing, in the form of 3x5-in. purlin supports are framed into tie beams over bearing partitions. Purlin logs are pine or spruce, smooth on one face to provide a uniform surface for the roof boards. Purliins may consist of single continuous logs or may have a half-lap joint over a bearing point. Vertical purlin supports are let into one half inch deep notches in the 6x6-inch tie beams and inclined purlin supports are framed to bear against vertical supports.
As indicated before, the roof is made in two layers of one inch boards. The first (inner) layer consists of tongue and groove knotty pine, random width. It is nailed directly to the purlins, plate row and gable logs. Roof should extend one inch beyond the end of the purlins to provide a drip. Now apply 1 x 3 inch strapping across the roof, spaced a minimum of 24 in. on centers. There should be one of these over and parallel to each purlin. If insulation is being used, install it between the strapping. The outer sheathing is one inch random width spruce nailed to the strapping. The roof is finished with a 1 x 3 inch trim along all edges.
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Introduction
The Eagle's Nest
The Hermitage
The Gypsy
The Four Winds
Leisure House
The Little Lodge
The John Alden
The Six-Shooter
The Rustic
The Logger
The Scout
The Spring Bay (Part One)
Spring Bay (Part Two)
The Trailblazer
The Vagabond
The Hunter
The Seneca
The Hideout
The Hiawatha
The Fireside
The Triton
Where to Build It?
Pumps and Plumbing
Heating the Cabin
The Widgeon
The Snipe
The Wood Duck
The Bluegill
The Pike
The Boss
The Tidewater
The Cozy Cove
Carports
How To Build A Log Cabin
The Cabin Movement- Pre-cut Log Cabins
Where and Wherewith to Build
Foundations
Log Cabin Material
Log Cabin Walls
Log Cabin Floors and Roofs
Log Cabin Porches and Interior Details
Modern Log Cabins
Other Types of Cabins
Doors, Windows and Shutters
Building Fireplaces and Chimneys
Furnishing Ideas
Modern Conveniences
Beautifying the Cabin
Longer Life for Your Cabin
Hunting and Fishing Lodges
Profit-Making Tourist Homes
Wayside Stands and Other Things
Inside Cabins
Summer Homes
Specifications and Estimates